Wild salmon is always a bit of a treat. I bake it, loosely sealed in foil, with dill and white wine then serve it at room temperature with slices of dark, sticky bread and a bowl of oily mayonnaise. The point is the stark simplicity of the salmon on the plate and its mound of glossy mayonnaise, a tribute to the mild, sweet flavour of the fish. I regard both the mayonnaise and bread as essential.

Serves 4

tail end of wild salmon, filled – 1kg
olive oil
dill – a small bunch
white vermouth – 3 tablespoons
to serve: home made mayonnaise

Set the oven at 220˚C/Gas 7. Place one half of the salmon on a piece of kitchen foil or baking parchment, skin side down. Brush it with olive oil. Season with sea salt crushed black pepper. Remove the dill leaves from their thick stalks, shop them roughly, and lay them on the fish. Drizzle over a little of the vermouth. Place the second half of the fish, skin side up, on top of the dill. Sprinkle over the rest of the vermouth then wrap the fish up loosely in the foil, crushing the edges to seal the parcel. Bake in a roasting tin for 10 minutes per 500g. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the foil. Serve at room temperature with a bowl of homemade mayonnaise.